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Welcome to the basic electrical for combat robots page. On this page you will find some of the basics of getting your combat robot up and running. Below you will find an image of the electrical system inside a combat robot. Click on numbers for information about each of the components. |
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The following diagram is a basic set-up for the electronics in a two wheel drive combat robot using an FM-PCM radio control system. Click the numbers on the diagram to read the description.
1 - This (white) wire is connected to the positive terminal of the Victor 883 Electronic Speed Controller (ESC), the other end of the white wire is connected to one side of the master power switch (not shown). The other side of the master power switch is connected to the positive side of the battery pack (not shown).
2 - This (black) wire is connected to the negative terminal of the ESC, the other end is connected to the negative (ground) terminal of the battery pack.
3 - These two wires (small red and small black), connect to the positive and negative terminals of the speed controller to supply power to the fan mounted on the top of the speed controller. Although the fan comes pre-mounted from Innovation First Robotics, you will have to solder on a couple of small ring connectors and connect them to the terminals of the ESC.
4 - This is a Victor 883 Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) from Innovation First. Other ESC's are available and should wire up just as easily. Read your manufacturers instructions carefully, as hooking up power backwards can damage your speed controller.
5 & 7 - These are Pulse Width Modulation Cables (PWM), that you can by from your supplier when you buy your ESCs. The PWM cable plugs into your ESC and the other end plugs into your radio receiver (the same place you plug in servos). These PWM cables are specific to those who are using FM-PCM radio equipment and Innovation First speed controllers.. If you use the more common FM radio system, you will need to use "Fail Safe" cables that you can purchase at many Radio Control hobby stores and suppliers for approximately $30. You will need one of these for each speed controller, servo motor or other device that plugs into the receiver. Be aware that some electronic speed controllers come with built in fail safe circuitry.
6 - In this case, simply for the decoration, the light blue and light green wires are connected to a 24v Light Emitting Diode (LED) (not shown) on the outside of the combat robot (in this case as tail lights). The LED illuminates when the motors are run in either forward or reverse. If you require a light that is visible on the outside of your combat robot to indicate that it is activated (most tournaments require a visible light to indicate an activated combat robot), then connect these wires to the supply side of the ESC (where the power from the battery and master switch come to the ESC). The amperage consumed by even a large cluster of LED's is minimal. Most electronics supply stores will be able to provide you with a LED cluster for the voltage you plan to run your combat robot on. The electronics supplier should also be able to provide you with a mounting socket for your LED.
8 - The yellow and black wire connect to the positive and negative terminals of the drive motors. Again you may have to solder on a couple of connectors.
9 - This is the off/on switch to power the radio receiver. This should come with your Radio Transmitter and Receiver package. The switch will have (or should have), one connector that plugs into the receiver, another connector that your battery will plug into, and a third connector that your battery charger plugs into (should come with your radio transmitter and receiver system), and allows you to charger your receiver battery without having to remove it from the combat robot.
10 - The Receiver Battery simply plugs into a connector that runs through the switch (see 9). This battery obviously supplies power to the receiver but also supplies power to any servo motors or R/C devices you may decide to use.
11 - This is the Radio Receiver! A connector from the off/on switch (see 9) plugs in here as do the PWM cables (see 5 & 7), and any servos that you might choose to use, and supplies power for controlling your ESC's.
12 - Drive motor is connected via the yellow and black twisted wire pair to the ESC.
13 - This is the antenna wire (white), just because its about 3 feet long, don't chop it off. Avoid enclosing it within the metal armor of your combat robot, try using a piece of Lexan to allow your radio signal to make it through to the receiver.
NOTES
The diagram and component description is specific to those using FM-PCM Radio Control systems. Most PCM control systems have a programable "Fail Safe" that will return servo's and ESC's to a neutral position or pre-programmed setting upon loss of radio signal. If you choose to use a conventional FM radio system, "Fail Safe" cables can be purchased from most hobby stores. Some speed controllers are available with built in fail safe circuitry. Be aware, at present WBX allows the use of conventional FM (PPM) radio equipment, however many other events require that competitors use FM-PCM radio equipment. WBX may in the future elect that FM-PCM radio equipment be a requirement. All events require the use of a "Fail Safe". It should also be noted that radio systems must be set up for ground frequency use (75 mhz) (this is the same as R/C cars). R/C airplanes and helicopters use 72 mhz and are not allowed at any combat robot tournament.
Most manufactures of radio transmitter equipment use standardized connectors and components. Many of these components can be interchanged successfully. However you should check with your radio equipment manufacture to ensure that the components you plan to use are interchangeable.
The electronic components in your combat robot should assemble easily. Additional items such as Electronic Switches, Solenoids and Gyroscopes are bells and whistles that can usually be added to the radio system with relative ease. Most of your radio system components should fall into the category of "Plug and Play", and most of the electronic work you do should amount to soldering on a few connectors. Shock mounting the base on which you mount your components, and keeping them well protected will go a long way to ensuring your success in the arena. Well protected components can be re-used in a new combat robot even if you suffer the most devastating loss in the arena.